The Ring of Kerry is a 179-kilometre circular driving route that loops around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry — and it is, by almost any measure, one of the most beautiful drives in the world. Mountains tumble into the sea, ancient stone forts cling to clifftops, and the light shifts constantly over a landscape that seems almost too dramatic to be real. It has been drawing travellers since the Victorian era, when the railway arrived in Killarney and opened Kerry to the wider world.

The route passes through a remarkable variety of scenery. From Killarney you climb into the mountains past the Black Valley and the Upper Lake, then descend to the coast at Cahersiveen — a small market town with a striking white church and the ruins of Daniel O'Connell's ancestral home. From there the road hugs the coastline past Waterville, a quiet seaside village that was Charlie Chaplin's favourite holiday destination, and on to Caherdaniel, where the Derrynane estate and beach are among the finest in Kerry.Kenmare, at the southern end of the ring, is one of Ireland's most charming towns — a beautifully preserved planned town with excellent restaurants, independent shops, and a lively arts scene. From Kenmare the road climbs back north through the Caha Mountains and Moll's Gap, with views across the Killarney lakes that are among the most photographed in Ireland. The Ladies' View viewpoint, named after Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting who were reportedly enchanted by the panorama in 1861, is a mandatory stop.

The Gap of Dunloe is technically a detour off the main ring, but it would be a serious mistake to skip it. This narrow glacial valley cuts through the MacGillycuddy's Reeks — Ireland's highest mountain range — and can be explored on foot, by bicycle, or by horse-drawn jaunting car. The five lakes strung along the valley floor reflect the surrounding peaks, and the silence is profound. At the far end, a boat trip across the Killarney lakes back to town completes one of the great half-day excursions in Ireland.

The Skellig Ring, a smaller loop that branches off the main route near Portmagee, offers a quieter and arguably even more dramatic alternative to the busier sections of the main ring. It passes through the Irish-speaking village of Ballinskelligs, with views across to the jagged outline of Skellig Michael rising from the sea, and connects to the ferry point for the island. Even if you don't take the boat out, the views from the mainland are extraordinary.